Why we went
We came for the swamp. We stayed for the people.
Chokoloskee is an island made by hand. Over centuries the Calusa and their ancestors piled up oyster shells until the land rose well above the mangroves around it, and the town still sits on those mounds. A causeway didn't connect it to the mainland until 1956.
Captain Steve's family has been here since the mid-1800s, and he grew up running these islands and the Big Cypress swamp behind them. He showed us how locals cut swamp cabbage for supper, told us the island's long and complicated history in plain words, and made sure we understood why people who grow up here rarely want to leave.